At Grayton Beach in northwest Florida in the spring a row of jeeps, trucks, and other four-wheel-drive vehicles line up near the surf. On the beach between their vehicles and the surf, fishermen can be seen digging in the sand looking for bait or sitting in beach chairs watching their fishing lines, ready for a fight with the best eating fish on Florida's Gulf Coast, often called the Emerald Coast because of the color of the water.
The much-sought-after Florida pompano,Trachinotus carolinus,is a small, greenish gray fish with splashes of silver and gold that is found along the Florida coast near the shore. It usually weighs less than three pounds. Fishermen love to catch pompano because in addition to being a good eating fish, it puts up a good fight.
Pompano Bait: the Sand Flea
The fishermen begin to dig for the pompano’s favorite treat, a crustacean that the locals call the sand flea, as soon as the water warms up, about mid-April. The waves bring the sand fleas to the shore, and fishermen catch the bait right at the water’s edge as the wave goes out. They use a rake made especially for catching the shrimp-sized creatures or even an ordinary rake, and put them in a bucket of sand and water where they will stay alive for several days.
One old-timer, K.R. “Tuff” Smith wrote in a letter to the editor of Florida Sportsman in 1945 that pompanos travel in pairs and weigh between two and six pounds. He wrote that the “pompano bird,” or lesser sandpiper, heralds the arrival of pompano season. “When these birds show up in the spring one may be sure the sand fleas are on the beach as the young flea is this bird's favorite food.”
Mr. Smith doubtless walked to the beach, carrying only the essential things that he would need for the day, because the beach at Grayton is unusually wide. The walk across the sand to the beach is long, the sun is hot, and the sand is soft.
Today’s anglers have it easier than the fishermen of earlier times. Since Grayton is one of the few places in Florida where vehicles can be driven to the beach they can carry chairs, coolers, and boom boxes in addition to their fishing gear. However, beach permits for vehicles are issued only for property owners in Walton County and there are restrictions on where they can drive along the beach.
The anglers bait their hooks with sand fleas and cast out just past the breaking waves, between the beach and the sandbar about 100 yards out. Then they can sit back in their chairs, grab a beer and shoot the breeze with their fellow fishermen while they wait for a pompano to grab the bait and bend the pole.
How to Cook Pompano
The ones who stay all day may be lucky enough to bring home one or more pompanos for family and friends to enjoy. Pompano can be fried, broiled, or baked, but one of the best ways to cook it is pompano en papillote. The fish is seasoned and topped with crab or shrimp, wrapped in parchment paper, and steamed in the oven.
Spring has arrived at Grayton Beach when the sand is hot, the water is warm, and the pompano are running. The fishermen are hopeful they will bring home a nice catch. It is a joyous time to be at the beach.
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